Apr 7, 2009

Cheap and Easy Water Effects

I will be working on one of my table tiles for this demonstration.

See also:
Follow my table project
Tinting Glass with Future

Things needed:

  • Painted Terrain to add water to.
  • Ink
  • Foodcoloring
  • Future floor finish
I'm going to quickly go through making the terrain. Here is a stonework area that was made with one of the tiles I had already finished, and some foamcore over top glued down and carved out. I then added some stones and sand to texture it more, and the bases in the center.

Next I added a top rim, and painted the stones with some of the brown paint mixed with some chaos black from the Citadel scenery set.

I took the large brush in the Citadel scenery set and drybrushed the entire thing grey, then white with some acrylic paint.

Next, I added a dark wash to the area that is going to receive the water treatment. We don't want this area to look bright, as water tends to make things dark.

Finally, I put in some green leaves from the wood elf sprues, and painted them.

Now, mix up some Future with some food coloring, and make the entire thing whatever color you want. You Khorne guys might want to use red if you're making a fountain of blood, and likewise you Nurgle guys might want some green slime. If you want a less transparent water, use a paint color to tint it instead of food coloring. Here I've used two drops of blue food coloring.

Poor the Future into your area that's gonna be water, and let it dry for several days. The deeper the pool, the longer it will take to dry.

Now that I'm all finished here, I just need to add some flock/static grass and finish of the whole tile for my gameboard.


Itkovian April 8, 2009 at 7:01 AM  

This project looks really good. That pool seems quite effective, though I can't really tell how "deep" it is...

How exactly do the velcro strips work? Is it very stable?

Will be following any further progress avidly.


Akenseth April 8, 2009 at 12:32 PM  

The pool is about half an inch deep, once dry, models can be placed "on-top" of the water.

As for the velcro, it works really well. You can move the whole table as a single piece and it holds things together nicely in case of accidental bumps.

VoidLord April 8, 2009 at 6:24 PM  

Have you tried creating deeper pools with future?...possibly 2 inches thick or more? Does it dry hard like a resin finish or sorta soft like realistic water from woodland scenics? I am going to have to try this out as it could save me tons of money on water effects. Great job on the table and look forward to more modular sections.

Akenseth April 8, 2009 at 8:34 PM  

I haven't tried that thick, but I can tell you that it will take a very long time to dry. This piece here is still setting. You might be able to do it in layers , but the problem with Future is that it will "eat" itself. That is, if you pour future on future, it will turn the stuff that's dried back into liquid...

That said. It will also soak into porous things, like card and foam. So it might take a few layers anyway!

It dries like a soft almost but not quite mailable finish, but I don't know how to compare it to the Woodland scenics stuff as I've never used it. :/

Hope that helps some.

Damien,  June 30, 2009 at 1:07 AM  

I gave this stuff a shot, and I have to say I am sure glad I did a test O_O. I had the usual pink foam board, 3 layers glue, then glued sand, and another 3 layers of paint and drybrushing (acrylic). I poured the future floor finish on and it devoured the glue and re-activated the paint @_@... any recommendations?

Akenseth June 30, 2009 at 9:03 AM  

My best reccomendation is to let it sit until completely dry before you can see it working. It can take a day for a thin coat to dry completely. It does look as if it eats glue a bit at first. How much stuff did you add? I've only ever done about half an inch deep at a time. Future is Acrylic, so it will combine and thin Acrylic paints. I actually use it for that purpose too.

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